Saturday 17 May 2008

Blackhouses and Whitehouses at Arnol

DH had a day off so we headed to Arnol and the wonderful Blackhouse museum.

Originally, all of the houses on the Isle of Lewis were Blackhouses. These drystone, double-walled homes were simply called taighean, (houses). Then 150 years ago, new houses were introduced from the mainland - with single thickness walls, cemented with lime mortar. They were so different from the old-style houses that people called them taigh-geal (White House) and the name taigh-dubh (Blackhouse) was given to the older ones.

The Blackhouse at Arnol was built in around 1880 and the last family to live here only moved out in 1966! It was exactly as it would have been when they moved out and was so cosy - I wanted to move in! The walls are very thick, double skinned and the cavity packed with earth.

Inside, the peat fire was burning with a lovely pungent smell. It felt as if the family had walked out and left it just as it was.

The box beds looked really snug. There would have been a mattress stuffed with dry hay, then a few layers of tweed. Shutting the curtains would have made it warmer and quieter and shut out some of the smoke from the ever-present peat fire.

Adjoining this main living space, the Blackhouse also had an indoor byre for animals (very convenient when there's a gale blowing outside!). The Blackhouse was shared with a cow and calf, eight breeding ewes and 27 chickens!

The family that moved out in 1966 simply walked across the road to their new house (built in the 1920's), which we visited next. They didn't like it as it was damp, so they moved back into their Blackhouse and rented out the White House! The last resident of the White House moved out in 1976.

The house only had two rooms and seemed very small and cramped after the Blackhouse. The decor is as it would have been in the 1950's. It still had a box bed, which you can see, behind the armchair. You can also see the damp marks on the wallpaper!

I know which one I would rather live in! Arnol is well worth a visit if you ever come to Lewis.

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